1. Set the salmon skin side down on a large rimmed baking sheet
and rub with the aquavit. Let stand for 10 minutes. In a small
bowl, combine the brown sugar, salt, coriander and cardamom.
Rub the sugar mixture all over the salmon. Cover and refrigerate
for 36 hours.
2. Light a grill or heat a grill pan. Pat the salmon dry and cut it
into 6 portions. Rub the salmon skin and the grill with oil. Grill
the fish, skin side down, over moderately high heat until the skin
is crisp, about 1 minute. Cover the grill and cook the fish
over moderate heat until rare within, about 6 minutes. Serve hot
or chilled, with horseradish mayonnaise and a radish salad on
the side. —Jeremy Daniels